Review: Floritz
Sometimes a name pops up on your radar, a name you haven’t heard in a while. This was the case earlier this year when I attended the annual Irish Food Writers Guild lunch at Suesey Street. The chef that day was Matt Fuller, a name I was delighted to hear again, having very much enjoyed his tapas restaurant Boqueria in Stoneybatter all the way back in 2015.
Now Matt is to be found heading up the kitchen in Dublin’s latest high-profile opening, Floritz, a super glam and luxe restaurant in 22 St Stephen’s Green. Previously Cliff Town House (and more), the interior has been completely reimagined with a tropical botanical theme.
While this lavish style might seem odd, it’s actually fairly apt, considering that the original owner of the house, Thomas Lighton, spent time overseas with the East India Company. Architecture and design studio Project Orange has certainly delivered a dramatic vision in spades. For me, the best seats in the house are those to the front, overlooking the verdant Green, with seats to the rear benefiting from soft lighting reflected from a mirrored ceiling and golden decor.
In this kind of room, kicking off with a cocktail feels like completely the right thing to do. I notice that the cocktail list is arranged according to glassware (serving size), a feature I personally quite like as I prefer shorter drinks. The menu reflects the vibe of the room with accents of fruit, chili and other exotic tweaks. An “Ichigo-go-go” made with Toki whiskey and strawberry-infused Campari (€15) is oddly savoury, and I’m genuinely not sure if I like it or not. A dry martini comes made with Japanese gin and a whiff of yuzu.
Other reviewers have commented on the number of items available on the menu, and it certainly is long. However, it’s all broken down into sections such as crudo, kitori grill, wagyu, tempura and sushi. In case you haven’t guessed by now, the food is Japanese in style, a clever choice of cuisine for light, sophisticated and tasty dining. We are told that the food will arrive when ready, and it certainly did, delivered to the table in a constant, well-paced stream.
Oysters come served in beautiful white ceramic shells, topped with koji, pickled lotus root and wakame (€4 each). While removing the plump meat from their natural homes might seem cheffy-faffy, I appreciate the effort invested to make sure that there are no stray chips of shell.
They are quickly followed by skewers of leek (€6.50) and Dublin Bay prawn (€13.50) from the charcoal grill, accompanied by some truly excellent bowls of smoked egg sauce and a rich whey sauce. Everything is perfectly sized for the available chopsticks and we slathe each mouthful with the sauces.
As we finish each plate, it’s whipped away to be quickly replaced by the next available offering. We try two varieties of tuna sashimi, medium fatty chūtoro (€14) and the richly fatty otoro (€18). I’m told by manager Victor Nedelea that the tuna comes from Spain, regarded currently as the best source of sushi fish. Both come to the table, sitting atop of a mound of crushed ice and shiso leaves, and Victor grates fresh wasabi root, grown by Cork producer, Singing Frog Gardens. I’m told that the traditional shark skin grater is on its way but for now a ceramic grater does the job.
Dish of the night goes to the bow of wagyu tartare, dressed with shaved cured egg yolk, tempura crisps and a wakame salad (€25). It’s utterly gorgeous, with a tangy rich flavour and both of us go silent as we work our way through the well-sized portion.
Another really pleasant dish came in the form of the picanha steak, which came in precisely cut rectangles, fanned out over the plate (€28). Normally this cheap and cheerful cut is simply served, but in the hands of Matt Fuller and team, it’s elegant and melting, accompanied by chimichurri and a black pepper crème brûlée sauce.
With Victor Nedelea (ex-SOLE) involved, the wine list is varied and interesting. There’s a very nice selection by the glass (though not as diverse as in the downstairs sibling Cellar 22), and a reasonable number of bottles coming in sub-€40, which is not bad at all for a restaurant of this style.
Overall, I adored Flortiz. I swooned over the decadent interior and Designers Guild wallpaper. I loved the Japanese-themed food, served with precision, lightness and flavour, and thankfully not overly heavy on the stomach. This is a well thought out concept that is a very welcome addition to the capital’s restaurant scene.
Finally, I’ve found stimulating fine dining in Dublin! This is a restaurant as they should be with a clear focus on quality and experience. I only wish that I was staying longer. Can’t fault either the menu, service or ambience.
John Thorogood, Maroochydore, Australia.