Review: Tacos Lupillo
Enjoy superb Mexican food at this taqueria pequeña
Let me start this week’s review by declaring that I consider myself to be a bit of an expert on tacos. Well, as much of an expert as I can be after 2 holidays in Mexico, and several street taco tours in Cancún and Mexico City. To be more realistic, I’m definitely a step up the ladder from ‘Old El Paso’ taco shells.
Therefore when a Mexican friend tells me about a little spot in Inchicore that is serving THE BEST tacos in the city, I come over all interested. On a Sunday afternoon, I find myself outside a pink door next to Cleary’s pub on Sarsfield Road, sniffing the glorious smells of grilled meat and hearing a lot of Spanish chatter. It seems that the Mexican gods are smiling down on me.
Inside, Tacos Lupillo is absolutely tiny, and you might find yourself knocking into tables and other diners as you make your way to order. But despite the close quarters, there’s a real happiness and determination in the air. A sense of this is the place.
Behind the counter, a spit of al pastor (thin layers of pineapple marinated pork, skewered with vegetables) rotates away slowly, cooking in much the same style as a doner kebab or Greek gyros. I saw many al pastor in Mexico City but this is the first time I’ve personally seen one in Ireland. Colour me excited, I can’t wait to order.
I go for the tacos (€14 for 5) which I split into al pastor and chicken piri piri. I’m extremely tempted by the temptingly-named volcanes (folded fried tortilla with loads of cheese), but then I espy the torta (€13) which I get with barbacoa (tender beef brisket). Horchata, a traditional sweet non-alcoholic drink made from rice and dusted with cinnamon, is also on the menu so I order that too (€3). At this stage, there’s been no let up in the crowd, so a little disappointed I ask for my food to go.
I take my ticket, mentally translating to myself as número ochenta y siete thanks to my current Duolingo buzz. I retreat outside to wait in the cold so as to leave room for others. If however, you really do want a seat, Cleary’s pub allow punters to bring in food to enjoy alongside their pint.
As I wait outside, it’s clear that recent social media features have boosted Tacos Lupillo into the collective consciousness of ‘Cool Dublin’ many of whom find themselves outside a pub in Inchicore for the first time in their lives. While it’s great to see the interest, I feel a little regretful (perhaps wrongly) for the speed at which things have moved for owner and chef Jose Guadalupe Zamudio. I wonder about the Mexican customers who won’t have much of a chance to quietly enjoy a taste of home as well as for the staff themselves, who are simply flat out and looking more than just a touch frazzled.
It takes 25 mins before I have my order in hand, and I do take a moment of pride in being able to under my order number being called in Spanish (thank you Duolingo). Everything is tightly wrapped in tinfoil and when we unwrap it at home 10 minutes later, it seems it all has travelled well.
The tacos have a little topping of finely minced onion and coriander, accompanied by a salsa verde and salsa roja on the side for extra flavour. We like both, but the salsa roja is exceptionally good, with a creamy smoky chile flavour and slight vinegary tang. Both taco fillings are rich with citrus and spice, complete with seared bits from the quick grill fry. Along with the salsa roja, they disappear fast.
Then it’s time for the torta, a substantial, rib-sticking affair of grilled cheese, beans, grilled onions and the very tender, tasty barbacoa brisket. It does get a little samey samey after a few bites, but this is where the salsas work their magic.
Since our visit, I’ve learned that chef Jose makes his own chorizo, which means a return visit is definitely on the cards. If I learned one thing in Mexico, it’s that you ain’t had chorizo until you’ve had Mexican chorizo.
Jose had initially hoped to establish Tacos Lupillo in town, but costs were too prohibitive, so he set up in Inchicore in partnership with Cleary’s. In a way that’s not a bad thing, giving this real deal neighbourhood taqueria a chance to get established and bring a touch of Mexico to Dublin 8. After all, barriga llena, corazón contento (full bellies, happy hearts).
You definitely need to try the chorizo tacos! Best tacos in Dublin👏🏼