Review: Comet
Comets have a habit of coming and going, briefly blazing bright in the skies before disappearing off into the dark depths of space.
Let me assure you now though that the blaze of creativity and orginality that I encountered at Kevin O’Donnell and Laura Chabal’s Comet is no transient flare in the sky. This is that rare beast, a truly unique spot. Let me tell you more.
Coming from the Michelin-starred kitchen at Bastible, Kevin did the chef’s equivalent of a gap year in Asia, going to Copenhagen where he worked at the Kadeau group. His future wife Laura was also working there, and like all good Irish stories, the boy eventually bought the girl home.
Comet is tucked away on Joshua Lane, off Dawson Street, and the former premises of La Ruelle wine bar has gotten a serious dose of cool. The best lit table is a larger spot just inside the door and you will find the lighting gets dimmer as you move through the room.
Reading the little menu card meant some serious squinting and tilting towards the light, which makes me think I might be getting old (what!) but regardless, the menu is a joy to read, and even better with a glass of JM Sélèque Solessence champagne in hand (€24).
We exhibited an unusual level of restraint when it came to the snacks, limiting ourselves to just the anchovy and Meyer lemon toasts (2 for €9). Whoever first thought of putting anchovies on little fingers of oiled grilled bread was a genius. Comet’s version comes covered in sorrel leaves, leaving you to imagine rather than see the flavours. And while I did enjoy these versions, I found the citrus pungency of the Meyer lemon somewhat overwhelmed the little salty sea bombs.
A summery dish of peas, broad beans and pistachio was calling my name (€15). Let me just say that it can booty call me anytime it wants. A glorious transcendental mix of textures and lingering sweet roasted nuttiness, it came piled over a homemade crème crue which was creamy smooth, sweet and tangy.
Cured mackerel with kombu seaweed and tomato was light and delicate, with sweetness from the little tomatoes and a spicy earthiness from purple shisho leaves (€22). It made me sad to overhear a fellow diner say they didn’t enjoy mackerel. Such a pity to miss out on this dish.
Pollock is a fish that takes me right back to my childhood. My father would occasionally head out sea fishing with friends and our freezer would fill up with pollock and mackerel depending on time of year. It can be dismissed as a cheaper fish, but its firm white flesh makes it a great alternative to cod and haddock. In O’Donnell’s hands, it’s had the super luxe spa treatment, cooked in beef fat until pearlescent and flaking (€32). Served with girolles and hazelnuts, it’s a glorious fusion of sea and land.
The knockout dish of the night came in the form of a tiny bird. To be more precise, a split quail roasted on toast stuffed with chiffonaded leeks and served with Vin Jaune sauce (€34). There might not be a whole lot of flesh on a quail, but you will find yourself picking up the delicate little bones to pick off every morsel. The toast was crunchily caramelised from the cooking juices and the generous leeks were softly sweet. The Vin Jaune sauce could have benefited from a touch more cooking out, in terms of both alcohol heat and graininess, but we’re talking minor details here.
A herby rolled ribbon of pommes boulangère (€8) and green salad tossed in a supremely interesting dressing made from toasted bread and mustard (€8) round out the mains.
I often skip dessert but I cannot go past Coolea, a superb Gouda-style cheese made in my home area by the Willems family. My own family are such big fans that we actually give wedges of Coolea cheese as Christmas gifts. At Comet, it comes shaved on a warm oat pancake with a Cedrat marmalade. Marmalade and cheddar are natural bedfellows and I expected similar here, but like the anchovy toast, I found the cedrat to be too dominant, overtaking the cheese. With the right ratios, this would be just stellar.
The wine list is equally as interesting and fun as the food menu, with a cellar menu available for the deeper pockets. Our choice of a Hungarian dry Furmint (€75) provided just the right amount of challenge against the chosen dishes and Laura is always on hand to offer advice.
At this point in a review, I would normally be looking for a witty comment or link back to my opening. My honest opinion is that Comet has bought something new and genuinely original to Dublin’s dining scene. It’s not 100% perfect (just yet), but as they say on Love Island, I’m excited to see where this journey goes.