Review: Two Pups Notions
Two Pups is really only a few minutes walk from my house, but it’s not a place to which I go too often. Why? Because it’s so damn popular, with queues often forming outside to wait for weekend brunch. So while I like it very much, I choose other spots where it’s easier to get a table.
Thankfully though, their new nighttime offering, Two Pups Notions, allows for online reservations. I’m just not in the age bracket any more to be dealing with queueing. I like a good solid reservation. The concept here is trendy small plates, with a strong vegetable focus, and lots of natty wines. Well, what else would you expect in Dublin 8?
Both the food and wine menus come on A5 pages, so nicely short and easy to digest. The food menu has both a ‘nibbles’ and a ‘snacks’ section followed by ‘small plates’ and ‘large plates’. It definitely feels as if the small plate concept is getting more and more fragmented. Will ‘morsels’ come next, before ‘nibbles’?
We start with buttery grilled sourdough topped with whipped cod roe and a little drape of cucumber pickle. At €6 for two pieces, this feels rich and indulgent and rather excellent value.
A sweet yet spicy jalapeño granita atop Connemara oysters is clever and quite fun, livening up their saline minerality (€4 each). Chunky polenta chips with truffle aioli (€8 for 2) are quite decent, while ham hock croquettes with smoked Gubbeen (€9 for two) are packed with solid chunks of proper ham. I just wish the mustard aioli packed more punch to properly contrast with the ham as it just got lost in the overall mix.
Then it was onto a dish that turned out to be a real showstopper. Radishes, simply halved, were piled high on romesco with a wild garlic oil and hazelnuts (€9). A dish like this makes you wonder why we don’t eat more radishes, their crunchy plainness being a perfect vehicle for carrying flavours.
Not pictured, but absolutely thoroughly enjoyed was a simple dish of salad leaves and charred vegetables with an anchovy dressing (€12). I am these days completely in the green and grilled vegetable phase of my life and I adored its simplicity and freshness.
Our final plate sent us home on a high - chargrilled asparagus, crispy kale, pillowy gnocchi and perfectly fried guanciale (do you know how hard it is to fry guanciale like this?) swimming in a puddle of the creamiest parmesan emulsion (€18). This is finger licking territory right here. The goodness of the greens offset by the rich fattiness of the guanciale and parmesan. Genius.
We take it relatively easy on the wine, choosing two glasses over the course of our meal. First up is a glass of Alepa Fuori di Riccio Bianco, a richly hued oxidated wine, reminiscent of Jura or even sherry. At €13.50 per glass, it’s not cheap but it does have the complexity and interest to justify the price.
Later we try the Vina Illusion, a white Rioja that is much more mainstream with fresh and light flavours, but which didn’t deliver a lot for me at €9.50 a glass.
I left Two Pups Notions with the impression that there was a definite talent and skill in the kitchen, and I was excited to have this so close to home. Later that evening, I learned that Andrew Kelly (formerly of Ingredient pop-up and Potager) was in the kitchen and it all made sense. This man has a very nice touch indeed.
So, no notions at all in the end, no pretensions, but simply some very tasty, modern food and good wines.