Travel: A weekend in Clare
A short guide to West Clare
This week’s edition of ‘Ocras’ is coming out a little late, as I had a jam-packed week and simply couldn’t fit it all in. However, I am committed to sharing something once a week, so here is a little summary of our recent trip to the proud Banner County in the Wesht (sorry, West).
Where we stayed:
My mother in law is from the little village of Ballyvaughan in North Clare, and my father in law, a Waterford man, stayed at Gregans Castle on the night before their wedding over 50 years ago. As a result, Gregans has a place in our hearts, but even without the family connection to the area, it’s well worth a trip.
Owners Simon Haden and wife Freddie McMurray have created something really special, tucked away in a little valley, with gorgeous grounds and even lovelier views over Galway Bay. At night, it’s possible to see the lights of Galway City in the distance. From the minute you open the front door, the smell of open fires will warm your heart, and every little corner of the hotel is decorated with Freddie’s unique eye for detail.
An extra bonus for us is that Gregans is also dog-friendly, with 5 rooms available for canine guests. Word of warning though, Lady, the resident housecat, takes no prisoners, so be on alert when passing through with your dog.
Gregans is on the pricier end of the scale for Irish hotels, but it so wonderfully combines tradition with modernity, great service and excellent food (check out the breakfast ham).
Where we ate:
Monks of Ballyvaughan is housed in a building which dates back to the late 1800s, and now includes a smart boutique hotel as well as their ever busy seafood restaurant and pub. Live music, views over the sea, lashings of fresh seafood, homemade brown bread and it’s dog-friendly too.
Hugo’s Bakery in Lahinch is a must stop on your way around Clare. Mostly bakery, there is some limited space to enjoy a coffee, a pastry or their incredible homemade focaccia sandwiches. I’m still dreaming about the sandwich we ate in the car, with the wind and rain lashing the windscreen. Possibly a best sandwich in Ireland contender. We also bought home a top notch sourdough, again amongst the best I’ve tried recently.
Beag is a new cafe in Kilrush, down in the south of the county. It’s beautifully housed in an old corner house shop, complete with original high windows and other features. Their toasties are excellently made, all golden and crunchy, and there are vegetarian and vegan versions available. Dog friendly.
I’ve always loved the charm of the Dining Room at Gregans, where Robbie McCauley was formerly in charge, now in the hands of Jonathan Farrell (ex Bastible). The team here, headed by Xavier Castellano Micó, has been beefed up with the addition of Filip Oguic (ex head waiter at Glover’s Alley), and ambitions are clearly high. Jonathan is having fun here, with all the produce of the kitchen garden and the Burren at his fingertips and it shows. There are some dishes that will feel familiar to those who’ve eaten at Bastible, but presented here with a new twist, while others are completely new.
Our last meal was Sunday lunch at Homestead Cottage, a short distance outside Doolin. This small, solid cottage, crouching against the Atlantic winds, is one of the least likely places to find Michelin starred cooking, but Robbie McCauley has found his north star here. Wife Sophie leads front of house and has an excellent wine menu to go with this modern style of seasonal, local Irish cooking. The hake with wild garlic was bright and fresh, a perfect ode to a spring day. Their bright young sous chef Bryan Bridgeman is one to watch. Sunday lunch is excellent value at €39 for 2 courses, or €45 for three.
Where we shopped:
The Cheese Press, Ennistymon, a cosy cafe cum grocery store, owned by Sinéad Ní Ghairbhith, sister of Siobhán, who makes the legendary St Tola Goat Cheese.
Banner Books, Ennistymon, a treasure trove mix of new and secondhand books, complete with cat snoozing in the windows. Also in Kilrush.
Hazel Mountain Chocolate is one of Ireland’s few bean to bar chocolate producers, and the air inside is rich with the smell of cacao. Watch the chocolate being made, have a coffee and buy some goodies to take home.
Clare Jam Company, Doolin, are made just down the road from Homestead Cottage, and they have a tiny little shop snugly fitted into their production area. There are jams, chutneys and mustards galore.
The Burren Smokehouse, Lisdoonvarna was set up in 1989 by Birgitta & Peter Curtin and they smoke organic Irish salmon and other fish. The smokehouse is open to the public, and there are tours and tastings to try.