Review: Jean-Georges at The Leinster
Does Ireland finally have a celebrity restaurant that will last?
Gordon Ramsay came to the then Ritz-Carlton Powercourt and left. Gary Rhodes came to Dublin 7 and left. Jean Christophe Novelli did a stint at La Stampa. Jamie Oliver has endured, and in doing so, generated one of Conor Stevens’ best review moments. And as I watch the latest series of The Restaurant, it seems that Marco Pierre White is immovable.
In general, big name international chefs don’t have great track records in Ireland, so how will Jean-Georges Vongerichten get on?
Jean-Georges who I hear you say? This French chef has built up a global empire of restaurants, including 2 Michelin stars for his eponymous New York venue. The McKennas have profiled him on The Irish Stew, while over in the Irish Times, Marie Claire Digby recently sat down with him for breakfast.
And while Jean-Georges’ name is on the door, the Head chef is Ross Bryans, who has some serious cred; Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and Jason Atherton’s Pollen Street Social.
Located on the top floor of the new, compact and swishy Leinster Hotel, the 60-odd seater interior is quite gorgeous, similar to the luxe cookie-cutter Press Up fit outs to which we’ve become accustomed, but more. The creamy marble restaurant bar is a true thing of beauty, glowing warmly in the setting sun, while trees sit in between curved banquette seats.
Jean-Georges’ trademark style is a blend of French and Asian. The menu careens from solidly French (baby artichokes with rose saffron aioli) passing through the Middle East (roast cauliflower with tahini and za’atar), before landing somewhere near China and Japan (crispy salmon sushi).
It’s all a bit gloriously bonkers, even technicolour Willa Wonka-esque (the Gene Wilder version of course) but also quite tempting. At this stage of his career, it’s fair to assume that ‘Jo Jo’ knows what he’s doing.
A ginger margarita cocktail is restrained, a bit sweet and a little fiery. At €16 a pop for cocktails, I would have hoped for something a bit more distinctive (and a better glass), but a cucumber martini (everyone’s favourite, a Jean-Georges signature) is well received.
Sea scallop tartare with plum sesame and kohlrabi comes with purple and green shisho leaves for rolling, burrito style (€18). It’s a generous portion and while at times the purple shisho leaves threaten to overtake the sweet scallop, it’s overall a success, light and fresh.
Crispy sushi with organic Irish salmon sushi (€16) is another winner despite the foreboding mention of chipotle. Although delicate chopsticks are provided (for authenticity?), it’s far easier to pick up the sushi by hand. Along with a killer martini, these would be the ultimate bar snack.
Crispy skin salmon with fermented black bean, ginger and grilled asparagus sits oddly atop a pile of mash (€32). These flavours have the intensity of a fire truck siren at full blast, but are also quite enjoyable. My plate of wild turbot crusted with seeds and nuts (€38) is subtler, with slices of baby potatoes and pearl onions in a moreish ‘sweet and sour jus’.
A side of mash, with knob of butter melting on top, exceeds expectations (€6).
Mains range from €24 (cauliflower) to market price for native lobster. With the addition of a side, it means that most mains will land around the €40 mark which is not cheap.
During the 80s, my Sunday job was to ‘make’ dessert. While watching the OG Battlestar Galactica, I mixed milk straight from our bulk tank with a sachet of Angel Delight before letting it set in the fridge. A bowl of Jean-George’s butterscotch pudding topped with rich butterscotch takes me right back, but this version is far far better (€12), though I doubt it’s as immune boosting as my raw milk affair.
At the moment, the wine list is short (12 white and 18 red), but there are plans to extend. The cheapest bottles on the menu clock in at €45 and €47, in a selection that I term as interesting eclectic. We choose a Carl Koch German Riesling (€54) which pairs well with the Asian influences.
The staff are on high alert as it’s the early days of operation, and some are clearly very excited to be working in a Jean-Georges. It’s testament to the man’s long standing reputation as a restaurateur, and how his name is recognised outside of Ireland.
All in all, I enjoy Jean-Georges quite a bit. It’s tasty, well-executed food that left both of us in a happy mood, in a smart yet casual venue. But I am left wondering who is the intended customer? There will obviously be hotel guests, and I’m sure corporates with expense accounts will come, but I’m not sure which other segments will find their home here.