Review: Elbow Lane
Cork's long running brew and smoke house delivers
This time last year I was on a dream holiday in Mexico. Sandy beaches, baby turtles crawling to the sea and practically intravenous margaritas. Cork on a November evening might be a world apart, but the Oaxacan Wey cocktail at Elbow Lane takes me right back. Featuring both tequila and mezcal, and topped with a pineapple chunk blow-torched right in front of me, it’s a really well made drink, sharp and sour, with just enough sweetness (€13.50). Next to me, a pint of Jawbone, an American style Pale Ale, brewed in the tanks visible at the far end of the dining room goes down well. (€6.20).
I’m down home for a short trip, and I've finally managed to book a table (or indeed counter seats) at Elbow Lane, one of Cork’s busiest restaurants and part of the popular Market Lane group. My sisters tell me that getting a booking here is no mean feat, even more so when I realise that this combined microbrewery and smokehouse restaurant has been in business for 10 years. That unwelcome revelation makes me feel old. Another drink is needed.
Elbow Lane isn’t particularly large, and chefs work right in front of diners, at the open-fire Ox Grill or finishing dishes. The air is laced with smoky goodness, possibly the best smell a restaurant can have. Meat, fish and veg are mostly sourced in Cork, occasionally going as far afield as Waterford, and the menu lists each supplier by their first name. Even the butter supplier gets a mention. Billy and Mary of Irish Gourmet Butter in case you’re wondering.
I spot Rossmore oysters on the menu, produced by Rupert and Tristan Hugh-Jones, taken straight from Cork Harbour. These are fine meaty specimens with a decent chew, topped with tomato and horseradish chutney delivering a satisfying kick right up the nostrils (€4 each).
Slices of deeply caramelised pork belly are a literal flavour bomb in the mouth, intensely salty yet sweet, with melting fat, lightly splashed with fish sauce and dollops of chili and peanut crunch (€12). The portion may look a little small, but trust me when I say that this starter is the equivalent of a Jack Russell terrier. Size of the fight in the dog and all that.
We turn to a turbot aguachile (€14) which is a much calmer affair, and in hindsight, we should have eaten this first. The fish slices are generous and firm, with a strawberry salsa and broad beans, herby epazote and chunks of crunchy tostada. It’s solidly good but a little more zing would be welcome.
A portion of lamb rump is sadly underwhelming. The relatively thick slices make for a good jaw workout, and it’s just lacking that magic flavour I’d expect from a grill over open fire (€28), despite the tastiness of the accompanying smoked tomato and salsa verde.
The market fish option turns out to a whole mackerel, butterflied and grilled, served with mussel and pistachio beurre blanc (€19). This version is spot on with crispy skin that easily pushes aside. Mackerel may not be a fish that every one enjoys due to its stronger flavour, but I personally love it, and this was a great example. Bonus mention for the creamy slice of fried panisse.
A side of ‘Elbow chips’ (€6) are coated in the restaurant’s signature smokehouse spice rub, and charred broccoli turns out to be an actual chunk of good, old-fashioned broccoli tossed in a soy emulsion, instead of the now much overused tenderstem (€6.20).
The wine list is relatively short (9 reds, 4 whites) and all bar one of the wines are available by the glass, pichet or bottle, which means that it’s very easy to mix and match to your dishes. I particularly liked the Old Coach Riesling from New Zealand whose subtle residual sweetness paired very well with the mackerel (€13.30 per pichet).
I decide against desert in favour of one more cocktail, an excellent whiskey sour flavoured with wood smoke captured directly from a torched wood log on the bar counter (€13) by bartender Matt. I’ve got to say that I’d return to Elbow Lane for the cocktails alone. In fact, I’d gladly return to Elbow Lane anytime. There’s a hell of a lot to like, and with a little thought, the looser elements can easily be tightened up.
Brothers Ronan and Harrison Sharpe recently took over the management of Elbow Lane, and they are both visible on the night, Ronan at the door and on the floor, and Harrison leading the kitchen. They’re clearly bright young things, good choices to take Elbow Lane forward into its second successful decade.