Meascán #1
Introducing a new occasional series 'Meascán', a mixture of things that I've liked
Welcome to the first edition of a new article series, ‘Meascán’.
Simply put, ‘Meascán’ is a mixture of things that I’ve recently liked, and that I want to share with you. Regardless of whether I paid for something myself, or was gifted something to try as a press sample or press trip, if I share it here, it’s because I liked it.
‘The Irish Bakery’ by Cherie Denham, Kitty Corrigan and Andrew Montgomery
I only recently met Cherie Denham for the first time, and afterwards, I immediately ordered ‘The Irish Bakery’. It’s a stunningly beautiful book, lavishly filled with atmospheric photos from all over the island, taken by Andrew Montgomery. Kitty Corrigan’s essays deep dive into people’s relationships with Irish food and baking, while Ulster-born Cherie’s recipes will transport you back to a time of open fireplaces, range cookers, enamel dishes and simple home baking.
And while the book is wonderfully nostalgic, it does brings a modern perspective to homely Irish baking, pulling together simple and complex recipes from North and South. Cherie’s experience as a private chef and owner of a catering company, combined with her Ulster background, gives her an indisputable authority, reinforced by a shining recommendation from Nigella Lawson.
At the moment, ‘The Irish Bakery’ is only available from the UK-based Montgomery Press website, but customs and duty are all included in the price. Cost is £27.00 excluding postage and shipping.
Dog-friendly stays and sea views at King Sitric
My little dog loves to stare out of windows. She’s known in our neighbourhood for sitting upstairs in our bedroom window, woofing at German Shepherds, delivery men and vans. As my home office is based upstairs, I’ve become normalised to muting phone calls when she erupts.
However, last weekend she got to look out of a different window with a far better view. King Sitric, the beloved Howth seafood restaurant, has 10 bedrooms available, facing onto Balscadden Bay or the Harbour. And best of all, they’re dog friendly. Clara was enchanted by the new view, as was I, and best of all, she managed to convince the entire housekeeping team to give her belly rubs.
We used this little overnight trip to Howth to visit the excellent Mamó, where I caught up with the lovely Jess D’Arcy and Killian Durkin, and Clara was treated like a queen on their terrace. Oh, and there might also have been a cheeky lobster roll enjoyed at King Sitric too.
Allta by Niall Davidson
When the latest iteration of Allta opened its doors down in the Dublin Docklands, the initial buzz was (well) buzzing, and then normal routine resumed. But having just visited again, I can confidently say that the new summer menu and accompanying cocktail menu from Glovebox, is absolutely spot on for the summer months.
Stracciatella with trout roe and shiso comes cupped in a feather light crisp parsley croustade, dry-aged Woodtown Jersey beef is hand chopped into a tartare piled high atop a perfect bone marrow rosti, Cromae oysters have a hint of the Orient with a wild rose granita, all finished off by soft serve ice-cream with smoked strawberries, yuzu and lemon balm.
What I loved most about sitting in Allta was watching the entire team work together around the open kitchen space. They’re young, bright and very talented, and it’s a big well done to Niall for fostering such a great atmosphere.
‘A Compendium of Irish Pints’ by Ali Dunworth
Disclosure: I was sent an early copy of this book with thanks to Ali Dunworth, Nine Bean Rows books and Food PR, with no expectation of review or comment. All opinions are my own.
Sometimes it feels as if a lot of ‘filler’ books are produced by the publishing industry just for the purposes of acting as quick gifts or stocking fillers. Let me tell you right now that Ali' Dunworth’s first book, ‘A Compendium of Irish Pints’ does not fall into that category, although it would indeed make an excellent gift.
From the minute I opened the covers of this compact little book, I was hooked. Ali’s homages to the wonders of the pint are perfect encapsulations of what it means to be Irish. Funeral pints, communion pints, wedding pints or afterwork pints, her natural and engaging style will have you nodding along, recalling fond memories from your own pinting history.
And while Ali’s words are magnificent, the illustrations from Stephen Heffernan aka hephee, are equally engaging. Simple in design, but bursting with humour and resonance, each perfectly matches the accompanying text.
‘A Compendium of Irish Pints’ is available from the Nine Bean Rows website for the excellent price of €15.00, excluding shipping costs (a 10% discount is available for first time purchasers), as well as bookshops all over the country. Well worth the price of a few scoops.
Mo Chara passion fruit and mango gin
Disclosure: I was sent a bottle of this gin to try by Mo Chara spirits, with no expectation of review or comment. All opinions are my own.
There are very few food items that I don’t like, but passion fruits are one of the them. In general I find their unique combination of sweet and acidic to be too much for me. However, I am a fan of the Mo Chara passion fruit and mango gin, which is available exclusively at Aldi (€19.99 for 50cl). This is probably because all the fruit and flavour of passion fruit has been captured in the gin, leaving the sugar and acidity behind.
Mo Chara spirits are made by the Old Carrick Mill Distillery in Carrickmacross, Co Monaghan. And while whiskey may be the main deal in the distillery, the Mo Chara range has built up a very decent reputation for their fruity, flavoured, affordable gins and recently took Gold at the 2024 World Spirits Awards.
Personally, I quite like to use it nearly neat in a light martini, or alternatively, blended with some frozen fruits and a good amount of fresh apple juice to make a boozy summer smoothie.
Go raibh maith agat 🍻💚🍻