5 rosé wines for summer
In the words of the divine Joan Collins, rosé season is now officially open. Granted, she is advertising the rosé collection from Marks and Spencer, but the sentiment is still 100% valid.
Rosé wine has become a symbol for summer. In the years from 2002 to 2018, global consumption increased by 40% (according to the Provence Rosé Group) while the 2023 CGA Wine Insights report revealed that a third of consumers drank rosé on trade (e.g. on a licensed premise).
Statistics aside, it’s clear that a glass (or bottle in some cases) of rosé is popular. It’s easy to drink on its own, as an aperitif, or typically with lighter foods such as salads, cheese and fish. Celebrities such as Jon Bon Jovi, Sara Jessica Parker, Graham Norton, Brad Pitt and Lisa Vanderpump are chasing our pennies with their rosés.
Esoteric names such as Whispering Angel or Screaming Devil, and attractive glass-stoppered bottles are all part of the marketing buzz that surrounds rosé, with the French area of Côte de Provence (CdP) probably the most well known region. However, let me tell you to not discount other regions as anywhere red grapes are grown is a potential source of rosé.
Over the course of the last few weeks, I’ve worked my way through multiple bottles of rosé from all around Europe. Some were grand, some were forgettable, and some were quite decent. Below I share the details of five rosé wines from France, Greece and Portugal that I’ve enjoyed, and where to find them.
Note - all prices are correct as of the date of publication.
Rosé de Reynier, Marc Lurton & Fils, Bordeaux, France, 2022, 12.5%
Made from 50-50 combination of the classic Bordeaux grapes Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this crisp rosé is produced following a short period of skin contact. It’s got all the usual aspects, red berries, citrus and a lovely touch of creaminess. A good French alternative to Côtes de Provence from Marc Lurton.
Available at H2G Wines (€18.95) and Baggot Street Wines (€20.95).
Invivo X SJP, Vin de France, France, 2022, 12.5%
The only celebrity wine on my selection, I was actually rather pleasantly surprised by Sarah Jessica Parker’s entry into the rosé market. It’s labelled as ‘Vin de France’ even though the Invivo X SJP website says that the grapes come from the Roy René vineyards, near Lambesc in South Provence, so this implies there is something a little different going on in the winemaking. There are the typical red berry flavours, but also some watermelon and peach, while the bright acidity means that this packs a little more punch than most.
Available in SuperValu (€16.00), Carry Out off-licenses nationwide (€18.98) plus other retailers.
Cabriz Rosé Colheita Selecionada, Dão, Portugal, 2022, 12.5%
We all know that Portugal typically delivers superb value for money, and this Lidl rosé from the Dão region (adjacent to the Douro Valley, but different in style) certainly meets the standard. Made from the Portuguese varieties of Alfrocheiro and Touriga Nacional, the red fruits here express more sharply than the previously mentioned strawberries. In this wine, they’re more akin to redcurrants, but with a peachy softness too. Perfect on its own or with food.
Available from Lidl, (€10.99).
Bendel Cuvée Caroline, Côtes de Provence, France, 2022, 12.5%
A classic CdP rosé, the Cuvée Caroline ticks a lot of boxes for people who like easy-drinking, summery rosés. Soft red berries dominate, with gentle acidity, making it pleasant to enjoy well chilled on its own, or with some seafood. Available in SuperValu, it can often be found on special offer.
Available at SuperValu (€15.00)
Screaming Devil, Côtes de Provence, France, 2022, 13.0%
Often labeled by the media as a dupe of the pricier Whispering Angel, this slightly meatier and cheeky wine has proven popular since it launched in SuperValu. It comes in a long necked, elegant glass-stoppered bottle and is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. As a result, the style is riper and fruitier than the aforementioned angelic version, and in my opinion, better (See Tom Gilbey’s compare on Instagram below).
Available at SuperValu (€18.99)
